Our tour guide led us with her oversized-plush-flower on a stem in case any of us got lost. The city is filled with amid narrow winding alleys, crumbling courtyards, and dark doorways of neglected buildings in both the Jewish and Arab quarters. There is a magical quality about the Old City that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world. Here, the colorful markets and narrow alleyways share a history of war and peace. We spent the night in a sketchy hotel that had toilets with no water in them. The next day we continued our tour and headed back on the bus, back to Egypt. I decided to take a nap on this seven-hour