Open Costing Sheet
The cost sheet displays how each component of the jacket has contributed to the overall total price. Included is the costing for the fabric and trims, as well as the delivery costs and CMT cost. As I am sourcing from Bulgaria, there is no duty to be paid. The jacket requires 1.2meters of polyester fabric to produce. Roughly 1.5meteres of fabric will be needed of acetate lining due to extra fabric used in creating the 3 pockets.
Packaging and care labels
Required – Care labels, black woven label, black size pips, swing ticket and a back of pack sticker. As well as a hanger.
Packing – The blazers will be hung is order to keep their shape and to ensure that no damage is done to the garment went driven over. I have chosen landed as it will be far cheaper.
The most sensible and cost effect way of transporting the goods is via truck. It takes 2 weeks for the garments to get to the UK, and costs around 5% of the cost price of each item to transport. Because the jackets are relatively expensive, they will be transported in containers, individually poly-bagged and hanging on bars to ensure that they do not get damaged or the shape of the garment gets distorted. Of course the cheaper open would be to hang them on vertical strings in the container as this takes up less room however because the jackets are a tailored item they will be too heavy to hang on strings.
The cost of transporting the blazers in this particular way of course reflected in the selling price. The jackets should remain hung when they reach Next’s warehouse and should be packaged carefully when being delivered to customers to avoid a creased appearance when on the display.
Testing Requirements
Testing of a product is an essential part of the buying process and provides the Buyer and Garment technologist with crucial information that will help them to guarantee that the products they buy are labeled correctly and are fit for purpose. They are paid for by the supplier and incorporated into the garments cost price. To ensure Next maintain their good quality reputation, every garment must be looked at in depth and with precision.
The testing procedure is paid for by the supplier and built in to the cost price.
Base tests are carried out in the first stage of the critical path. Around the same time as the lab dip and original sample. Physical tests of the fabrics performance are thoroughly carried out on the fabric and the garment to make sure that if there are any problems, they are shown up and can be put right before production continues to the next stage.
Grading system – Tests are graded on a scale of 1-5 and grade 3-4 is generally the pass rate but each individual test will have its own requirement.
When a base test report highlights areas of concern it can be possible to resolve the issue – alter construction method or pre-treat a fabric before production commences. On a bulk test report time is precious and making amendments are not always possible. The level of the fail rate will also have an impact. The buying team and garment technologist would want to see the samples from the testing lab, they would then come to a decision whether the results and in some situations wearer trials would be done. If the buying teams agree to accept the goods a cost price reduction would be negotiated.
There are 4 subcategories of physical testing 1. Fabric construction 2. Physical properties 3. Wear properties 4. Dimensional stability/ washing
1. Weight is measured for denim, knitwear and jersey. It is important to check as the supplier